Omnivore's Dilemma: A Book Review

I’d heard of this book a few years ago but never took the time to investigate and/or read it. Had I, it might have caused less resistance when Jason wanted to move towards a more organic diet.

In the book, Omnivore’s Dilemma, author Michael Pollan does an excellent job of investigating the origin of certain foods and describing what he finds. I appreciated that his tone throughout the book is one of portraying information and not picking sides. He also talks about several facets of food consumption I hadn’t considered before, such as food miles. The economic history of several foods was also fascinating.

Pollan focuses on 4 main areas/types of food production: The Industrial Meal, The Industrial Organic Meal, The Local Sustainable Meal, and The Do-It-Yourself Meal. In each section, he plans a meal. He then researches the different ingredients of the meal: where did they originate from, how was it raised, how was it processed, etc. Each section’s finale is a review of how the meal he personally prepared tastes.

The book is complete with a long list of references used throughout, resources, and tips for healthier eating. I can easily see why many readers have called this book a “Game Changer” and I would tend to agree myself. Since I started reading this book, Jason and I have had many conversations regarding our own farm, food choices, and possible changes we could make.

While I won’t reveal anything too graphic, I would like to point out a few things that surprised me and/or I knew but didn’t realize the impact. I would strongly encourage you to read the book – if for no other reason to learn new things about industrial food processing. Pollan also makes a couple correlations to increases in certain processed foods and the rise of health problems. Knowledge is Power!

Please note: Any statistics/quotes from the book were current as of 2009, which is when the book was published. While some specific products may not be used anymore, we still need to consider that they may have been replaced with “bigger & better”, which doesn’t always equate to healthier or safer.

~ While Pollan researched potato fields in Idaho he learned they can be sprayed with a chemical called Monitor. It’s used to control bugs. After the potatoes are sprayed, no workers are allowed in the field for 5 days because it is so toxic to the nervous system. Additionally, other pesticides used can sometimes penetrate the potatoes, which means no one can eat them while growing. After harvesting, they are stored for about 6 months afterward so the chemicals can fade away to a “safe” consumption level. (I haven’t been able to eat french fries since!)

~ Corn is invading the grocery stores! If you look at how many ingredients are derived from corn, you’ll soon realize you’re consuming more corn than you ever thought. Here are some common derivatives: modified starch, unmodified starch, glucose syrup, maltodextrin, ascorbic acid, crystalline fructose, lactic acid, MSG, caramel color, xanthan gum.

And that’s not including the main source of feed for most animals: corn. Cattle, chickens, pigs, catfish, egg-laying chickens, dairy cows – are all fed corn. When we eat them, we’re also eating the corn they’ve consumed! Then there are the non-food items that also contain corn by-products (diapers, cosmetics, toothpaste, trash bags, etc.).

~ The supply of corn is greater than the demand. Hence the need to invent new ways to use it! This is how high fructose corn syrup, ethanol, and increased animal feed came about.

~ In 2007, there were 13 billion bushels of corn grown. Of that: 47% went to animal feed, 19% was exported, 24% went to fuel, 6% to other processed foods and 4% to high fructose corn syrup.

~ Cows have a secondary stomach called a rumen. This allows them to make a complete meal out of various grasses. The bacteria living inside the rumen break down the grass into protein and carbohydrates. It is not meant for digesting corn, which is why cows raised on feedlots (which mainly use a corn-based slop) don’t live as long. The cows can become sick feeding on corn, which is why they are given liquid vitamins, antibiotics, vaccines, etc.

~ Supersized please! A man by the name David Wallerstein figured out that people would eat more (aka spend more money) if they had the option to purchase a larger serving size. They might still be hungry after a normal serving size but didn’t want to appear piggish if they went back for seconds. The supersize option took care of that!

~ Researchers also discovered that people would eat up to 30% more if given larger portions. This eats up your daily portions of calories/sugars/carbs/etc. much quicker!!!

~ In 1971 to 1974 the percentage of children considered obese was 5.8%. During that time the average consumption of high fructose corn syrup was 3 calories per day. In 2003-2006 the percentage of obese children increased to 17.3%. Interestingly enough the average consumption of HFCS increased to 200 calories per day.

~ Food miles: How far your food travels from where it’s originally grown to your grocery store. In many ways it’s nice to have the option of fruits and vegetables year-round, but at what cost??? In the U.S. that can mean your food has flown 1500-1800 miles (or a couple days) before you even see it, let alone consume it!

~ Considering food miles, our ancestors ate what was available seasonally. This meant a steady rotation of foods and our bodies had a break from digesting things. Does having every food available all the time contribute to today’s health problems/allergies???

~ Industrial Organic – A definite improvement from most industrial farms in both care and quality of animals and produce (in my opinion). Some things are still very agribusiness oriented. And to be grown on a larger scale they almost must be. However, you still need to consider food miles and learn the differences in organic labels. For people who don’t have the option of gardening/raising animals themselves, this presents a good alternative.

~ Local Sustainable Farming – As our family farm would fall into this category, I really appreciated it being brought to light. These kinds of farmers often follow organic processes and treat the animals with respect, but due to costs are not officially certified organic. Pollan spent a week at Polyface Farms with Joel Salatin (I would LOVE to meet him someday). Salatin raises chicken, beef, turkey, rabbit, eggs, and pigs on roughly 100 acres of pasture with another 450 acres of forest.

Pollan helped rotate the cows daily, feed the pigs, move the portable chicken coops, and harvest/process a batch of chickens. He talks about how he struggled morally harvesting the chickens, and how it was nice to “know” the animals, see they were treated well, and living as nature intended.

When Pollan questioned Salatin on the higher price of his food, Salatin replied “…Society is not bearing the cost of water pollution, of antibiotic resistance, of food-borne illnesses, of crop subsidies, of subsidized oil and water – all the hidden costs of the environment and the taxpayer that make cheap food seem cheap.” Indeed – I never have!

~ His last section on his Do-It-Yourself Meal was humorous! He went hunting for the first time for wild pig and scrounged for chanterelle and morelle mushrooms. I must agree wholeheartedly with him that as a hunter, you need to be grateful for the food/appreciate how it was grown/and not take it for granted!

As people come from all walks of life; I thought this book did an awesome job of trying to speak to each audience. Several thought-provoking questions and/or statements are given throughout. It was an easy read, included numerous pictures, and fun sidebars highlighting history, facts, and graphs.

His call for readers to “Vote with their forks” is very true. No matter what category you fall into or are trying to reach can be influenced by where we, as consumers, spend our money. Who do you want to support? That is where we should spend our time and money!